Sowing seeds of awakening

Known as Bhikshu Saukhyadeva, you visited the Land of Drummers.
With your consort Kalasiddhi, you attained accomplishment there.
You cared for Humkara and brought forth his realization,
thus causing the radiance of the Dharma to shine.
Homage to you!
— Jamyang Khyentsé Wangpo

The Pema Kathang leads us to the lowlands of southern Nepal in our journey to Ngatupchen, Land of Drummers. In recent times, Kyapjé Chatral Rinpoché recognized Ngatupchen to be an area on the borders of the Tanahun and Chitwan districts, at the confluence of the Kali Gandaki and Trisuli rivers, where the hills of Mahabharat meet the Terai plains. In particular, Rinpoché specified a cave beside the “Sita Cave” near the rivers’ confluence, surrounded by hills of tropical forest, as the meditation place of the vidyadhara Humkara.

Today, this place is one of the most sacred Hindu sites in Nepal. The waters of the Trisuli, flowing down from the beautiful Kyirong valley in Tibet, merge here with the mighty flow of the Kali Gandaki as it pours down from Mukthinath in the western Himalayas. Strengthened, the Trisuli continues on its way, finally meeting the sacred Ganges at Patna in India. Some believe that this place where the two rivers meet, this place known as Devghat, has been frequented by gods and sages since time immemorial. Others say it is the birthplace of Vyasa, legendary scribe of the Vedas and author of The Mahabharata, one of India’s most beloved epic sagas. In the Hindu tradition, the confluence of two rivers is a very powerful place, a tirtha, or ford, where the devotee can cross from the mundane to the spiritual. Hence, ritual bathing and offerings are performed here regularly.

Words from the Masters

The significance of this site is captured in the follow work:

How to get there

The town of Devghat is located on the outskirts of the Chitwan region. It is 7 kilometers (4.3 mi) from the city of Narayangarh, 20 kilometers (12 mi) from Sauraha and 150 kilometers (93 mi) southwest of the capital Kathmandu, and is accessible by all types of road-based transport. There is a central bus station in Narayangarh, with buses running from there to Pokhara regularly.


food and accommodation

As an important place of Hindu pilgrimage, there are a variety of local options for food and accomodation.


Following Kyapjé Chatral Rinpoché ’s identification, this is the first confluence of significance in Guru Rinpoché’s journey through Nepal. Later, with his activity in Nepal complete and King Trisong Detsen’s invitation calling him to Tibet, Guru Padmasambhava followed the Trisuli upstream, all the way to the border at Kyirong. Along the way, he also stopped at Devighat, the second significant confluence in this journey. There, in the place known as Tsawarong, he called unruly local spirits to order before finally entering Tibet.

Humkara’s Cave - 27°44'50.2"N 84°25'32.6"E

The central place of pilgrimage in Devghat for the Buddhist is the cave recognized by Kyapjé Chatral Rinpoché as the site of Humkara’s practice. It is just beside the cave known to Hindu devotees as the Sita Cave, where Valmiki led the Goddess Sita to reunite with her beloved Ram.

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