KathmanDu's Timeless Temples Of The yogini

a Valley of Hidden Dakinis

Entering the Space of the UNshakable Yogini

Many times, that which is most profound and sacred can be hidden in plain site. In the context of the Kathmandu Valley's holy sites, this holds true regarding the subtle yet profound sacred temples of Vajrayogini, (often pronounced Bajrayogini by the local Newar people). While locations such as Pashupati, Swayambhu and the Asura Cave of Pharping draw hosts of pilgrims and generally curious visitors from all over the world, the wrathful dakini abiding at these sites if often overlooked as visitors make their way to the more well known areas. Nevertheless, the blessings of Vajrayogini await the faithful pilgrim at several sites spread out around the Kathmandu Valley and other adjacent areas.

THE Main TEMPLES of Vajrayogini

1.  Balaju Guhyshwori - Map Location

2.  Pashupatinath Guhyeshwori - Map Location

3. Sankhu Khadga Yogini - Map Location

4.  Pharping Vajrayogini - Map Location

5.   Bidhjeswori - Map Location

6. Chapagaon Vajravarahi (Bajrabarahi) - Map Location

7. Godawari - Map Location

1) BALAJU Purano GUHYESHWORI

Balaju Purano Guhyeshwari is situated roughly five kilometers to the north of Swayambhu, nestled beneath the sacred Mount Nagarjuna—a place where, according to the Swayambhu Purana, Buddha Vipashyin once cast the lotus seed into the prehistoric Kathmandu lake. The term “purano,” signifying “old,” hints at the temple’s historical significance as the original site from which the lotus emerged from the lakebed. This sacred location houses a small Newar temple that is accessible to the public. Within its premises, there is a well, covered by a lotus-shaped brass plate featuring a distinctive hole at its center.

Visitors and pilgrims have the opportunity to circumambulate the shrine, lighting butter lamps at the site and making traditional offerings. Supplies for these offerings are readily available at the local shops along the path leading to the temple.

2) Pashupatinath Guhyeshwori

Nestled in the vicinity of Pashupatinath, on the northern bank of the Bagmati River, you’ll find Guhyeshwari—a sacred place reserved exclusively for Hindus. It holds immense significance as a Shakti Pitha, a revered site where Sati’s yoni is believed to have descended to Earth. In 1654, King Pratapamalla undertook the construction of a temple at this location to enshrine this sacred site. Within the temple’s hallowed walls, a remarkable feature takes center stage—an intricately formed support resembling a naturally-arisen yoni. At the heart of this concealed chamber, saline water perpetually flows forth, gradually accumulating to create a serene pool. In recent times, a petite eight-petalled lotus lid, crafted from copper and adorned with gold, has been installed as a covering, crowned by the presence of a sacred vase. Devotees come to drink and collect this sacred water, believing in its blessings.

3) SANKHU VAJRAYOGINI

Sankhu, a Newar town in the northeast corner of the Kathmandu Valley, gained prominence due to its role in the Tibet trade and its connection to the renowned shrine of the goddess Vajrayogini on a nearby hill. Its origins date back to the 7th century A.D. when a trade route was established from Kathmandu through Sankhu to Tibet, contributing to the town’s founding and historical prosperity. The shrine on the forested Manichunda hill north of Sankhu, where the goddess Vajrayogini resides, predates the town itself. Originally a monastery known as Gum Vihara, this site played a crucial role in spreading Buddhism from Nepal to Tibet. The sacred lake Manichunda is situated near the top of Manichunda Mountain, discharges its water into two different directions: to the east, in the Manishaila and to the west in the Manilohini.

Sankhu has a long history of pilgrimage and visits by siddhas for extended retreats and ganachakra feast offerings. There are several caves surrounding the site. It is said that some of the 84 Mahasiddhas of India have meditated here. 

The main temple enshrines a representation of Ugra Tara, or Ekajati, said to have been brought from Bengal in the 14th century. The female deity is depicted wielding a sword—khadga—and is aptly called Khadga Yogini. The upper temple has an identical image of Ugra Tara, forged in bell metal. In both the upper and lower temples, the main deity is flanked by Baghini and Singhini, the tiger and lion-headed yoginis.

In the upper temple is a bronze Buddha and a Lokeshvara, both in standing posture. Below this upper shrine room is a small chamber containing a self-arisen Swayambhu stupa in stone. Behind the temple is a courtyard with a basin containing the “Water of the Kalpa,” which never dries up. In the building immediately to the left of the stairs is an eternal fire or “Fire of the Kalpa”. Above the Sankhu Temple complex, there is also a blessed and sacred lake - Map Location.

4) PHARPING VAJRAYOGINI

Following in the footsteps of this great Lotus-Born Siddha, in the 11th century, Pharping became the home of the esteemed Newar masters and brothers, Dharmamati and Vagishvara. Both were disciples of the Mahasiddha Naropa and accomplished practitioners of Chakrasamvara and Hevajra. Referred to as Phamthingpa in Tibetan, these brothers played a pivotal role in spreading the Vajrayogini teachings in Nepal and transmitting them from India to Tibet. Notably, as recounted in his biography, the renowned Tibetan translator Marpa Lotsawa (1012–1097) received teachings from them during his journeys to and from India. It is said that Marpa Lotsawa visited the Pharping Vajrayogini temple on at least three occasions during this time. As a result, the Pharping Vajrayogini temple stands as a timeless symbol of the transmission of the most profound dakini teachings, serving as a testament to the sacred atmosphere of Pharping.

Near the start of the main street that leads uphill through Pharping, you will find a small road on the right that also leads uphill. This road will take you to a second set of steps leading up to Asura Cave. The Vajrayogini temple is at the foot of these steps. Once you have entered the main gate, the Varjayogini statue is found on the first floor of the temple, reached via a small staircase to your left. The shrine is often closed, but if any of the caretakers are present they will happily open it up for you. It is prohibited to photograph the image. If you wish, you can offer some money to the caretaker, which will be used for offerings and maintenance.

5) BIDHJESWORI

The Bidhjeswori Vajrayogini Temple graces the banks of the Bisnumati River, nestled between the vibrant neighborhoods of Thamel and Swayambhu. The temple of Vidhyeshvari was once at the center of a great cremation ground of Ramadoli, visited by great siddhas, such as Thangthong Gyalpo, Marpa Lotsawa and Vanaratna. However, the charnel ground is nowadays confined to a small section where the Kusumavati and the Kesavati rivers converge. The Vajrayogini temple’s Newar name, derived from “Vidhyeshvari,” translates to the “Wisdom Goddess.” This sacred temple is dedicated to a specific aspect of Vajrayogini also called Akashayogini, “the Flying Yogini,” through which the Indian Mahasiddha Maitripa attained realization.

6) Chapagaon Vajravarahi (Bajrabarahi)

A shrine venerating the fiercer aspect of Vajrayogini, known as Vajravarahi, awaits discovery near the village of Chapagaon, nestled at the southern extremity of the Kathmandu Valley. Here, countless eons ago, the wrathful goddess emerged from a sacred pond that still graces the vicinity, marked by the present temple.

This shrine is ensconced within a luxuriant forest, teeming with an abundance of avian and other wildlife. Local lore whispers that the leaves from the trees in this unique forest never venture beyond its boundaries. It’s as if a protective sphere envelops the area, sealing in the profound blessings of the yogini, ensuring they remain within its sacred embrace.

7) Godawari

Godavari is located in the southeast of Kathmandu, which lies in the Lalitpur district. There is a small water pond in the eastern corner of Godavari, beneath the hill, called the Godavari Kunda. It is a small pond having perennial water flow throughout the year. Next door is the large Ösal Chöling Godavari Tibetan Buddhist monastery and a further retreat center built by Kyapjé Chatral Rinpoche.

Legend has it that in ancient times, a Siddha who possessed miraculous powers practiced meditation in Nepal. His daily routine included journeying to the Godavari River in India to collect water for his worship. This continued for twelve years until Goddess Sarasvati, pleased by his unwavering dedication, appeared before him. She assured him that there was no need to visit the Godavari River daily, as she could provide the river’s water at his location. However, the Siddha was skeptical. Sarasvati instructed him to leave his bag and jar behind. Reluctantly, Siddha returned to the Godavari, only to find water flowing from the spot where he left his belongings. Even his bag and jar emerged along with the water.

THree Day itinerary

If you wish to visit each temple, we recommend dedicating at least three days allowing adequate time at each stop. Keep in mind traffic in Kathmandu can slow travel down tremendously and rushing through each site will take away from the experience. Ideally you can dedicate a day to visiting each site, but if your time is limited, the below three day itinerary is the smoothest way to visit each shrine. Keep in mind that each one of these sites, are among a broader pilgrimage location you wouldn't want to breeze past if visiting for the first time.

Day 1: Guhyeshwori Temple (Pashupati) & Sankhu

If you are starting your day in Boudha, visiting these two sites is relatively easy. While non-Hindu foreigners are generally not granted access to the Guhyeshwori Temple, making the journey to the site is still well worth the effort, as Pashupati is a large temple complex open to all, where the unbound and wrathful energy of Vajrayogini is on full display. After you visit to the Pashupati, head east on the Boudha Main Road past Jorpati, where you will enter the small village of Sankhu roughly 40 minutes down the road. If going straight from Pashupati, it is best to depart from the back entrance where the Guhyeshwori Temple is located.

Learn more about the area around Boudha and Pashupati in this video.

Day 2: Bidhjeshwori (Swayambhu), Balaju, & Pharping Vajrayogini

Though trying to visit both Pharping and Swayambhu in one day can be a bit exhausting, it is certainly manageable. If you have time, it is definitely worth breaking these two trips up among two days. You can however take a cab right to the foot of the stairs of the Pharping Vajrayogini Temple. After exploring the temple, be sure to make your way further up the stairs to the Asura Cave just above. Keep in mind that it takes about an hour to get to the Bidhjeshwori Vajrayogini Temple in Swayambhu. It's best to allow yourself at least two hours at each location. If you wish to visit the sites of Godawari and Chapagaon Vajravarahi the next day, we recommend spending the night in Pharping as Chapagaon is closer to Pharping than Boudha or Thamel. In this case, you can visit Swayambhu and the surrounding yogini sites in the morning, finishing at Pharping.

Day 3: Chapagaon & Godawari

If coming from Pharping, we recomend visiting Chapagaon's Vajravarahi followed by Godawari, as you make your way back to Kathmandu. It will take a little over an hour to reach Chapagaon. Once there be sure to spend some time soaking in the natural environment. From the Vajravarahi Temple, Godawari is only around twenty minutes away by car.

For more information on Pharping, watch the following video.