SITES OF THE GURU: Kathmandu Valley and Pharping
A Sacred Urban Landscape
Pilgrimage in the City
Most people visiting Nepal are there to experience the breathtaking scenery of the Himalayan Mountains which serve as the backdrop to the entire nation. These types of visitors generally go straight away to Kathmandu's tourist epicenter, Thamel, and quickly jet off to the beautiful lakeside mountain town of Pokhara to then embark on a trekking journey. While this way of experiencing Nepal is certainly adventurous and rewarding, it is a different agenda than that of the pilgrim on nekhor. (See our section explaining pilgrimage). For those seeking to connect to the powerful sacred sites of Nepal, it's important to take your time. Rather than immediately rushing out of the crowded Kathmandu Valley, we've assembled a suggested itinerary for those wanting to experience the blessings of Guru Rinpoché in one of the world’s most enchanting cities.
Seven Day itinerary Outline
Day 1: Boudha: The Great Jarung Karshor (See the "Practicalities” section for more information regarding arrival)
Day 2: Lhundrup Tsek
Day 3: Swayambhu and Arya Jamali
Day 4: Asura and Yangleshö
Day 5: É Vihara of Patan
Day 6: Bhaktapur
Day 7: Back to Boudha
Detailed Itinerary
Day 1: Boudha: The Great Jarung Karshor
After what is likely a long journey to Kathmandu, we recommend you start your stay in Boudha. Once you arrive, you will see many options for taxis as you exit the Kathmandu airport. From there, head straight to nearby Boudha where you will find many guesthouses. It’s advised to reserve a room in advance, but it is possible to make arrangements upon arrival if necessary. Take your time to relax and connect to the blessings of the Boudha Stupa and the surrounding monasteries. One aspect of nekhor is simply wandering through these enchanted environments, without any particular agenda. See our page on the Boudha Stupa for more details.
Day 2: Lhundrup Tsek
Once you've gotten some rest in Boudha, enjoy a slow morning to let yourself adjust. When you feel ready, journey to the next stop on your pilgrimage as you dive deeper into the charnel ground known as Lhundrup Tsek. While Boudha is certainly part of this ancient charnel ground, we encourage you to take a short trip to the active cremation grounds of Pashipatinath on the ghats of the Bagmati River, known simply as “Pashipati.” If you have the energy, it is quite easy to walk from Boudha to Pashipati, taking around 25 minutes on foot. If you prefer, there are several cabs outside the Boudha Gate that will take you this short distance. While the main Pashipatinath Temple, dedicated to an incarnation of Shiva, and the Guhyeshwari Temple, dedicated to Shakti and Vajrayogini, are both restricted to Hindus only, the rest of the grounds are open to all people. Learn more about Pashipati and Lhundrup Tsek here.
Day 3: Swayambhu and ARya Jamali
Now that you’ve had a few nights of rest staying near the Boudha area, it’s time to venture out to two new parts of the Kathmandu Valley. Though Nepal often has a reputation for utter tranquility and high mountain isolation, the crowded urban landscape of Kathmandu can be far from peaceful. This means a trip from one part of the city to another can be extremely exhausting, but don’t let this discourage you from further immersing yourself in the inexplicable majesty often shrouded in the chaos. The first stop will be at the Self-Arisen Stupa of Swayambhu, considered to be the most important site for Newar Buddhists. We recommend eating an early breakfast in Boudha and taking a taxi to Swayambhu shortly after. It will take around 30 minutes to get there. If traveling with a large group, you can also arrange private bus transportation that will drop you off at the large bus parking lot near the base of the stupa. Swayambhu is commonly referred to as the “Monkey Temple,” so be prepared to encounter several curious primates during your visit, and don’t walk around holding any enticing food. Reaching the top of the stupa requires climbing several flights, so be sure to bring water. Learn more about Swayambhu here.
After spending the morning exploring Swayambhu and the surrounding area, head to nearby Thamel, which is only around 15 minutes away by taxi. Thamel is the main touristic area of Kathmandu, where you’ll find many options for lunch. Adjacent to Thamel is Arya Jamali, one of the five Self-Arisen Avalokiteshvara Brothers. Learn more about the Arya Jamali and the Avalokiteshvara Brothers here.
Day 4: Asura and Yangleshö
Having spent the last three days exploring some of the main sites of the Kathmandu Valley, the next stop brings you out of the city and into the village of Pharping, about an hour’s drive from Boudha. Here you will find the most sacred site of Guru Rinpoche, the upper Asura Cave where he attained the siddhi of Mahamudra, and the lower cave of Yangleshö where he accomplished the wrathful deity of Yangdak Heruka. Because the drive is a bit far and there are so many precious places to visit in Pharping, it’s recommended you spend the night. Learn more about Pharping and the Asura and Yangleshö Caves here.
Day 5: É Vihara of Patan
After your time in Pharping, the next stop is the Newar kingdom of Patan in the southern part of the Kathmandu Valley, roughly 45-minutes from the Asura Cave. If you wish, you can find a traditional Newar guest house to stay for the night near Patan’s Durbar Square. This will optimize your time to explore the depth of Patan’s rich Newar Buddhist heritage. Find out more about Patan and É Vihara here.
Day 6: Bhaktapur
The last stop on our journey through Padmasambhava’s sacred sites of Kathmandu takes us to the largest preserved Newar kingdom of the Valley, Bhaktapur. While it’s certain Guru Rinpoche would have at some point passed through this area, the site is most known for its association with Padmasambhava’s Tibetan consort, Yeshé Tsögyal. We also recommend staying overnight at this location, as there are many sites to explore, including the five Dipamkara Buddhas. Find out more about Bhaktapur here.
Day 7: Back to Boudha
While journeying to these sacred sites is incredibly enriching and inspiring, it can also be quite exhausting. After a week of nekhor around the Kathmandu Valley, returning to the simplicity of Boudha can be a welcome relief. If this is where you wish your journey to end, we suggest taking an extra few days at the tail end of your trip to just relax and reflect on the wonderful blessings of the sacred places you had the good fortune to visit. Boudha is also a good place to spend your remaining nights in Kathmandu because it is very close to the airport. If you wish to continue your journey through the broader sacred landscape of Nepal, click below: