Chumig Changchub

The Spring of Enlightenment

When binding the protectors, who abide by their vows,
In that supreme place of power, immaculate and enchanting,
On the very border of India and Nepal,
You grant your blessing, and as soon as you arrive
The mountain becomes fragrant, a sweet scent wafting through the air.
Even in winter, lotus flowers bloom,
And a spring flows there, called ‘Nectar of Enlightenment’.
In this supreme and sacred place, suffused with bliss,
O Kyechok Tsulzang, clad in Dharma robes,
Your right hand wielding a nine-spoked vajra,
Your left supporting a jeweled casket
Brimful of the elixir of rakta,
You bind dakinis and guardians, who keep their pledges,
And you attain the siddhi of beholding the yidam face to face.
— Barché Lamsel, the Prayer that Removes All Obstacles on the Path

To the west of the Kathmandu valley, beyond the winding roads and valleys of the endless Pahari hillscape, lies a realm in which Guru Padmasambhava’s efforts to tame the wild spirits of the land are etched into the stones themselves. The Great Guru passed this way on his journey to Tibet and displayed incredible feats to bring these haughty demons to the Dharma. This is where he was known as Kyechok Tsulzang, Bestower of Wealth and Siddhis, and this outpouring of the Guru’s power and blessings remains available to all. The spring itself is at the heart of this sacred site, as its name Chumig Changchub, Spring of Enlightenment, attests.


Words from the Masters

The significance of this site is captured in the following works:


How to get there

Daman lies on the Tribhuvan Highway, 100 km southwest of Kathmandu, about halfway to Hetauda. It is approximately a four-hour drive from Kathmandu, in the district of Makwanpur. 

By Jeep: We recommend that you travel by jeep in a small group. Jeep taxis to Daman are offered by the various travel organizations in Kathmandu. A jeep taxi can hold 5-6 people comfortably, and the ride will take about 4–5 hours, depending on road conditions and traffic. Thus, if you leave early in the morning, it is possible to go from Kathmandu to Chumig Changchub and back again in one day, albeit a full one. You can also stay overnight in Daman.

By bus: Adventurous low-budget travelers can also reach Chumig Changchub by bus. These leave for Palung from the Balaju bus station in Kathmandu. Microbuses also run to Daman and Hetauda. Please be aware that the ride will be long, uncomfortable, and possibly dangerous – due to a unique driving style common in Nepal and India.

By bicycle: As this is considered to be one of the most spectacular (but not particularly easy) mountain-bike trails in Nepal, you can also get to Chumig Changchub by bicycle. Please check with a travel agent in Kathmandu for more information.

 

food and accommodation

Daman village offers hotels, guesthouses and the Mountain Resort – to suit different budgets. Food is readily available wherever you stay, as well as in the shops and local tea-houses.

When to go

We recommend visiting Chumig Changchub between February and April, since this is when the rhododendrons are in bloom. Another good time is September – November, once the monsoon has stopped and before the winter begins. Visiting in autumn may also give you panoramic views of the entire Himalaya. Please be aware that in the winter months of December and January, temperatures can drop below freezing and it may snow.


Explore

Entrance to Chumig Changchub: 27°36'05.3"N 85°05'10.8"E

This is the start of the path, the trailhead which leads to the spring. The sign announces it to be the entrance to “Shree Rikeshwar”, the name by which it is known to non-Buddhist Nepalis.

Chumig Changchub - The Spring: 27°35'59.2"N 85°04'52.9"E

The spring itself is located at ground level, in the corner of a stone platform. A glass wall has recently been erected for its protection. The water is clean and pure. To the left of the spring is a stupa, and several stone statues and images of Avalokiteshvara, Buddha Shakyamuni, and Guru Rinpoche. To the right, above the spring, is another stone platform where one can sit and meditate. Here, Guru Rinpoche’s face is visible in a rock. Some say it’s naturally arisen, others believe it’s carved.

The resident yogi Lama Rigdzin advises that, while visiting this place, one should recite Guru Rinpoche prayers, such as the Barché Lamsel, and also his mantra:

om ah hung vajra guru pema siddhi hung.

In addition, he advises reciting the mantra of Buddha Śākyamuni:

teyatha om muné muné mahamuné shakyamunayé soha.


Further Afield

Himalaya Viewing Tower and Trekking Trails: 27°35'50.9"N 85°05'26.7"E

There is a viewing tower located inside the Daman Mountain Resort (where food and accommodation are also available). From here, it takes approximately 30 minutes to walk to Chumig Changchub. If you are interested in exploring the area further, and perhaps going trekking, please ask at your guesthouse for information.


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